THE SKIP SMYSER ABRIDGED GUIDE TO NAPA VALLEY

June 4, 2008 Volume VI

Insignia Days 2008 was once again a signature event to plan a trip to Napa Valley around. The entire Phelps family made the ten Idahoans that joined them on Sunday afternoon feel welcome and poured some of the most incredible wines tasted yet. I took 5 days this trip and found every moment to be rewarding. Below I will share some new information on new wineries tried and updates on several others.

The 2008 celebration held last week was a great highlight because four other couples joined Melinda and me at the Insignia Day’s event. With the number of wonderful tasting and dining choices available it was special having so many friends in attendance. A great time was had by all. Put this event on your 2009 calendar.

Moving into second place on the must see list is Del Dotto Vineyards located at 1445 Old St. Helena Hwy, St. Helena, 707-963-2134. Our group enjoyed nearly two hours of barrel tasting with the inventor of the "Infomercial" Dave Del Dotto. Having this incredible personality led our tasting over the edge. Mr. Del Dotto is not only an incredible salesman but he has put together a wine making team that is fast becoming recognized for the high quality wines being made there. It is also the only place where you can taste the difference that oak makes in the wine making process. They will give you the opportunity to taste the exact same wine in three different types of oak which change the characteristics so dramatically that you will be hard to convince that it is really the same wine. Not only is this a fun event but it is one of the most educational opportunities I have found. There is also another Del Dotto cave experience at 1055 Atlas Peak in Napa 707-963-2134. They have a lease on this property for another 18 months at least but will be moving to the brand new facility after their lease expires. Both experiences are unique and should be included on any trip to Napa Valley.

Number three on my current hit parade is Schaffer Vineyards, which is the maker of Schafer Hillside Select. A very hard tasting to arrange but worth every minute of effort. The setting in the Stags Leap district is hidden from the highway and can only be found by the street address located at 6154 Silverado Trail, 707-944-2020. They are permitted to have 20 people a day Monday through Friday taste at the facility. We were there as they were bottling their next vintage of Hillside Select which will be released in the fall. This tasting was incredible. If you have ever tried to buy Schaffer Hillside Select in Boise you will realize the challenge in adding this high quality product to your cellar. We were fortunate and met the winemaker who was overseeing the bottling .

  Skip with large Format Hillside Select

The grounds are immaculate and the caves are outstanding. If you have never toured a sparkling wine facility this would be my number one recommendation for you. It’s a nice light tasting to start the day and you will leave knowing a lot more on how sparkling wine is produced.

Many people have struggled with how to maximize their time in the Valley. Lots of friends are able to combine a business trip to San Francisco with a quick outing to Napa Valley, but the huge number of wineries available often results in wasted time racing from one end of the valley to the other and more time is spent in the congestion than in the tasting room. As a result of requests to give a suggested itinerary for a quick visit I will attempt to steer you in the direction that will allow you to maximize your time and limit the frustration in trying to see as much as one can. I will lay out a suggested one day trip followed by a suggested half day trip that can easily be consolidated into 3 half day trips or stretched to a 2 day trip.

One of my favorite places to start a visit to Napa Valley is Trefethen Vineyards. When heading to Trefethen ask for Shannon Walli to work with when you arrive. She is knowledgeable, high energy and a lot of fun. They have wines that can only be purchased at the winery including "Halo" a very big, big wine that has won international competitions for quality. It is located at 1160 Oak Knoll Ave, 707-255-7700. Shortly after leaving Napa you quickly go into a very rural setting and Trefethen is right off Highway 29. From there I would suggest that you head east to the Silverado Trail where you can go to the Stags Leap district for tasting at Clos Du Val, 5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-259-2225, Chimney Rock, 5350 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800-257-2641,

Pine Ridge Winery, 5901 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-252-9777, Schafer, 6154 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2877. I would set the Schafer appointment first and use the others as fill ins around that visit. There are numerous other wineries in the area that can be very enjoyable including Stags Leap Wine Cellars 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2020, and Robert Sinskey Vineyards, 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-9090. If you are heading back to the San Francisco Bay and have time, you can make a reservation for a tasting at the Del Dotto winery on Atlas Peak, 1055 Atlas Peak in Napa, 707-963-2134. This is the old site but it is equal to the brand new one in the experience offered. The above might not sound like much, but I assure you that it would be one busy day if you were to visit all of these wineries.

There are a handful of wineries that remind me of Napa in the 70’s. They’re smaller and many times you’ll meet the members of the family in the tasting room.

Arger-Martucci is a small family owned winery that the daughter runs the tasting room. Located at 1455 Inglewood Avenue, St. Helena. Open 10-4, Thursday thru Monday and by appointment only 707-963-4334.

The winemaker is a practicing cardiologist in Reno. His 30-year passion for winemaking has found expression in a wonderful Cabernet that is exclusively made from hillside fruit. They’re warm, knowledgeable and will take their time with you.

A must see in the Stags Leap district is Robinson Family Vineyards. 5880 Silverado Trail, 707-944-8004, by appointment only. The granddaughter runs the tasting and tour. Grandma provided the local flavor. Dinky Robinson has knowledge of Napa Valley based on 80 plus years in the Valley. She and her late husband have sold grapes to major wineries for decades, but only recently started selling their wine to the public. She took us into her home and showed us pictures of the main wine families and it was delightful. It doesn’t get any better than this. The bonus is the wine is great too.

If you start in Calistoga, I’d visit Vincent Arroyo Vineyards, 2361 Greenwood Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-6995, tasting from 10-4. I bought a large format Chardonnay from Vince for Lincoln’s graduation party. I ordered two more this trip. It was a hit and I love visiting there. They’ll also do port barrel tastings if you show an interest. Vincent was there and was most cordial.

Next head to Zahtila Vineyards, 2250 Lake County Hwy, Calistoga, 707-942-9251, open 10-5. the proprietor is a former high tech executive that fell in love with wine and purchased this winery. The original wine sold was made by former owners and was poor to bad. Now that she is making her own product, there have been marked improvements.

I stop by Rombauer on every trip to the Valley, Jim Kozier is the retail manager. He is so good that he makes me think he really remembers me when I walk in the door. Located at 3522 Silverado Trail, St. Helena, 707-963-5170. Tasting from 10-5 and tours by appointment, they have great caves, available by reservation. This is a quality winery that treats you right.

Just down the road is Casa Nuestra Winery, 3451 Silverado Trail, St. Helena, 707-963-5783 with tasting from 10-5. Their products are interesting if nothing else. We’ve always had fun with these folks. The Two Goats red is made in honor of the two goats in the yard. The owner moved to Napa Valley in 1975 to get away from the people in the Bay Area. He became interested and then got into wine. I met him last June on Molakai, Hawaii. It was great talking with him around our pool in Molokai. He thought he was going to move because it is becoming too crowded, but he’s still hanging with the goats.

The Frank Family Vineyards has finally separated from Rombauer. Started by a Disney executive, who couldn’t be out front in the wine business, became partners with Rombauer. Tasting here is an event. Comedy is expected and you will be entertained. Make them pour the good stuff from under the counter. 1091 Larkmead, St. Helena, 707-942-0859. Tasting from 10-5.

Caymus has great history for fine wine and is worth the $25.00 tasting fee. They pour generous portions of Caymus Special Select, the group was small, and our host was well informed. Caymus Vineyards, 8700 Conn Creek Rd., Rutherford, 707-967-3010. Tasting by appointment only.

It was fun to return to Chateau Montelena after a couple of year absence. The wine is always outstanding and the tasting room is manned by knowledgeable individuals. They are currently hyping a movie that will be coming out this fall. It attempts to detail the 1976 competition in France that launched Napa Valley into the world wine wars. The movie highlights Chateau Montelena and its owners as well as Mike Girgich who at that time was their wine maker. It should be an interesting movie.

A marvelous country drive is in store for you if you venture to Pride Mountain wines. 4026 Spring Mountain Road, St. Helena, 707-963-4949 by appointment only. The 20 min. drive up the hills above St. Helena is enjoyable and provide wonderful views of the surrounding area. Pride Mountain offers fine wine in a special setting. Their vineyards are on the Napa-Sonoma border which is an interesting fact in and of itself.

Beringer Vineyards, 2000 Main Street, St. Helena, 707-963-4812, is one of the most spectacular locations in all of Napa Valley. The Beringer mansion is a wonderful stop even if you do not participate in a tasting. The mansion is currently being renovated and is closed until January 2009. The rest of the grounds remain open and tours of the caves and other facilities are available.

Beringer Vineyards

With all the new wineries that now grace the Napa Valley it is easy to forget those that brought me there in the first place. As a kid my sister, who lives in Stockton, would bring us there for a picnic. We would always stop in Rutherford at BV. Some of my earliest adu purchases were BV.

George LaTour. After many years away I stopped in their reserve tasting room and had a wonderful time. The manager’s sister lived in Boise and he had a brother in Garden Valley. He had just returned from a family wedding in Idaho. He waived the tasting fee and brought out some great BV wines. It was like visiting an old friend. I took right up were I left many years ago.

The Salvestrin Estate Vineyard and Winery, 397 Main Street, St. Helena, 707-963-5105, is a small winery and vineyard that adjoins St. Helena High School. The local FFA maintains two rows of grapes as part of their classroom. High School students making wine can only be part of the FFA in the Napa Valley. I can’t imagine it ever being allowed in Idaho. The private tasting at this site is accompanied with outstanding cheeses and bread. The young lady conducting the tasting was knowledgeable and made to visit the Salverstrin enjoyable.

Not being a coffee drinker, I had forgotten how important it is to many of you. From the Hideaway Cottages the closest espresso is at Cal Mart on Lincoln Avenue. The Calistoga Coffee Roasteré is a short walk at 1631 Lincoln Avenue. In St. Helena the Model Bakery located at 1357 Main Street is a treat, but it’s closed on Mondays. The Oakville Grocery at Highway 29 and Oakville Cross opens early for coffee drinkers and will give you the boost you need.

Drinking and driving is a consideration. If you do not have a designated driver, California Wine Tours provides self directed tours and chauffeurs, 800-294-6386. Antique Tours Limousine Service, 707-226-9227 is also an option. They are strongly recommended by Robinson Family Vineyards and have four 1947 Packard autos.

For a massage, facial, et cetera, Calistoga was founded for its healing waters. Mud baths are sort of fun! Lincoln Avenue Spa, 1339 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-5296; GoldHaven Hot Springs, 1713 Lake St., Calistoga, 707-942-6793. There are several others available. After the mud bath, you get fire hoses to wash each other off. Like I said, sort of fun. We had an excellent massage at the Calistoga Massage Center and Day Spa right across the street from Wappo Bar Bistro, 1219 Washington Street Calistoga 707-942-6193. Solage Spa is a new option as well. 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga (866)942-7444.

This is a weak spot in my reporting. This trip I never entered one shop. Usually I tag along and quickly forget where I’ve been (as I plan the next winery visit) but below are some spots that have vaguely stood out.

Goodman & Company, 1331 Main St. St Helena, Ca. 94574, 707-963-1750, it has every Hawaiian shirt alternative you can imagine, from Tom Selick’s Red Magnum P.I. shirt to several dozen Tommy Bahamas and more. The two blocks on both sides of the street house some shops of note. Antiques, wine shops, jewelry, embroidered towels, The Model Bakery (great pastries espresso and coffee, closed Mondays), drug store, clothing and apparel shops, Napa Valley Chocolates, Main Street Books and much more on Main Street in St. Helena. Down the road toward Calistoga is the St. Helena Premier Outlet Mall….Brooks Brothers, Escada, Movado, Jones New York, Coach Etc. Some decent prices on quality items. The City of Napa is home to over 75,000 residents and has a huge outlet mall, called the Napa Premium Outlets. Exit Hwy 29 at First Street. Over 50 stores and a downtown that is best described as "Funky" and "Original". The shopping opportunities are endless and my narrative is necessarily limited on the subject. Melinda could easily amplify this portion of my guide.

Your dining options are incalculable, whatever you want, they have. The number one recommendation is the French Laundry in Yountville. They have a two-month waiting list. I’ve been fortunate enough to get in on three occasions. On your way into the Valley, stop in at 6640 Washington St., Yountville. Tell them that you would love to dine with them if a cancellation occurs. I’m batting .500 on this approach. If you want to try to get a reservation, try 707-944-2380. This restaurant is consistently rated as one of the five best in the world. Their sampler menu has gone up to $240.00 per person. You should try it once.

A new dining event was at Meadow Wood resort. The tastings menu introduced us to seven courses paired with their recommended wines. The setting is elegant, the service flawless and the price extraordinary. The resort features a professional croquet course with its own pro. The players all dressed in white made me think of the great Gatsby of a bygone era. You won’t find it to be a recommended place to stay, because I was afraid to ask the cost.

Other great choices include Wappo Bar Bistro, Calistoga Inn, and Brannan’s all in Calistoga, they are a short walk from the cottages. The Wappo is fast becoming my favorite Calistoga eatery. This trip we sat outside on the deck and had a marvelous meal. They don’t gouge you on

Domaine Chandon, is a comfortable and enjoyable place for lunch or dinner. Across Hwy 29 from Yountville, 1 California Drive 707-944-2280. They feature sparkling wine, but their restaurant is world class. Service was unexpectedly good. If the French Laundry doesn’t work, try Domaine Chandon.

This trip I dined at all of the above listed eateries, except the French Laundry and Domaine Chandon. I enjoyed all and Tra Vigne was outstanding.

If you decide to play golf in Napa, I recommend the Chardonnay Golf Club and Vineyards at 2555 Jamison Canyon Rd. The Managing Partner and President is Jack R. Barry.

Most wineries have places on their grounds dedicated to the picnic. Bread, salami, and cheese are the norm for lunch, but you may add goose pate’ and an infinite number of other options available at any deli in the area. I recommend a visit to the Oakville Grocery at Highway 29 and Oakville Cross. A great store with everything you could want. It’s not your normal grocery, so don’t miss it. If you want a romantic spot to picnic, I recommend the Pagoda at Chateau Montelena, you must reserve it. It’s in a small lake surrounding the winery with swans-a-swimming, 707-942-5105. V. Sattui Winery is a picnic ground that also sells wine. It’s a fun spot to watch the Wine Train go by. 1111 White Ln., St. Helena, 707-963-7774. I have more on the Daryl Sattui below.

If you follow the routes that connect the above listed wineries, you will drive by dozens of wineries that are covered only in the Skip Smyser Unabridged Guide to Napa Valley. The Valley is a wonderful place to explore. The fun is making your own memories from the wines you taste and the people you meet. If I am able to provide insight on areas not covered, please feel free to contact me. I will update this after my next visit to the Napa Valley. I’d love to hear about the special places you discover.

skipsmyser@lobbyidaho.com