June 14, 2010                                   Volume VII

Insignia Days 2010 was once again a reason to plan a trip to Napa Valley. The entire Phelps family poured some of the most incredible wines tasted yet. Napa Valley remains my favorite 3 day getaway location. Below I will share some new information on new wineries tried and updates on several others.

Continuing to be my favorite winery in Napa Valley is Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 200 Taplin Rd., St. Helena, 707-963-2475 or 800-707-5789. Tasting 9-5 by appointment only. The 2007 that will be released in the fall appears to be yet another huge Insignia vintage. The barrel tasting of the 2008 Insignia was a show stopper for me. This will be a big winner. Put this event on your 2011 calendar.

Bill Phelps with Melinda and Skip during Insignia Days

Went to Del Dotto Vineyards located at 1445 Old St. Helena Hwy, St. Helena, 707-963-2134. We enjoyed nearly two hours of barrel tasting. This winery was founded by creator of the "Infomercial" Dave Del Dotto. Mr. Del Dotto is not only an incredible salesman but he has put together a wine making team that is fast becoming recognized for the high quality wines being made there. It is also the only place where you can taste the difference that oak makes in the wine making process. They will give you the opportunity to taste the exact same wine in two different types of oak which change the characteristics so dramatically that you will be hard to convince that it is really the same wine. Not only is this a fun event but it is one of the most educational opportunities I have found. It has lost some of its luster, but still an outstanding experience, but the sales staff is becoming way too cute. Everything is their little secret that no one else gets to taste. The wine is good enough that they don’t need the sales gimmickry.

Revana Family Vineyard, 2930 St. Helena Hwy., 707-967-8814 is an up and coming winery that features Heidi Barrett, as their wine maker. Todd Newman conducted the tasting and we found that his grandparents were from Wallace, Idaho so it was old home week. Please take a hard look at these products from both Heidi’s own label and the Revana label it appears to be the beginning of a new cult wine that will rival her "Screaming Eagle" efforts. The price is much better, for now.

Ballentine Vineyards, 2820 St. Helena Hwy, 707-963-7919 was in it’s last week in their small tasting room and should be in a new spacious location by now. Quality wine and an interest besides Cabernet. They poured some wines not normally found on the Napa menu. Kym Lyda conducted a very informative tasting.

"When the history of Napa’s great vineyards is written, the 40 acre Spottswoode Vineyard, tucked behind the quaint town of St. Helena, will be counted among the finest Grand Cru Vineyards of the region." Robert Parker.

While I often find myself at odds with Mr. Parker, he is as correct as correct can be with this quote.

Sue Cross, a forty year family friend of the Novak family conducted our walking tour of the winery, vineyards and the gardens around the Spottswoode Mansion. She was a Fountain of Knowledge and local history. The tasting around a kitchen table was excellent. This experience was leisurely and made us feel very special to be allowed to be there.

They are closed on weekends and only do tours at 10 a.m. on Tuesdays and Fridays. This is a must do event that you will long remember. To arrange a visit call 707-963-0131, 1902 Madrona Ave., St. Helena. www.spottswoode.com .

Schaffer Vineyards, which is the maker of Schafer Hillside Select is a very hard tasting to arrange but worth every minute of effort. The setting in the Stags Leap district is hidden from the highway and can only be found by the street address located at 6154 Silverado Trail, 707-944-2020. They are permitted to have 20 people a day Monday through Friday taste at the facility. We were there as they were bottling their next vintage of Hillside Select which will be released in the fall. This tasting was incredible. If you have ever tried to buy Schaffer Hillside Select in Boise you will realize the challenge in adding this high quality product to your cellar. We were fortunate and met the winemaker who was overseeing the bottling.

A tour and tasting at Schramsburg, 1400 Schramsburg Rd., Calistoga, 707-942-2414, is a visit into the history of Napa Valley. When Richard Nixon ventured to China to normalize relations with the Chinese, the Premier and American President toasted with Schramsburg Champagne. Every President since that time has added Schramburg to the White House menu during their stay in office.

The grounds are immaculate and the caves are outstanding. If you have never toured a sparkling wine facility this would be my number one recommendation for you. It’s a nice light tasting to start the day and you will eave knowing a lot more on how sparkling wine is produced.

Many people have struggled with how to maximize their time in the Valley. Several friends are able to combine a business trip to San Francisco with a quick outing to Napa Valley, but the huge number of wineries available often results in wasted time racing from one end of the valley to the other and more time is spent in the congestion than in the tasting room. As a result of requests to give a suggested itinerary for a quick visit I will attempt to steer you in the direction that will allow you to maximize your time and limit the frustration in trying to see as much as one can. I will lay out a suggested one day trip followed by a suggested half day trip that can be stretched to a 2 day trip.

One of my favorite places to start a visit to Napa Valley is Trefethen Vineyards. When heading to Trefethen ask for Shannon Walli to work with when you arrive. She is knowledgeable, high energy and a lot of fun. They have wines that can only be purchased at the winery including "Halo" a very big, big wine that has won international competitions for quality. It is located at 1160 Oak Knoll Ave, 707-255-7700. Shortly after leaving Napa you quickly go into a very rural setting and Trefethen is right off Highway 29. From there I would suggest that you head east to the Silverado Trail where you can go to the Stags Leap district for tasting at Clos Du Val, 5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-259-2225, Chimney Rock, 5350 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800-257-2641,

Pine Ridge

Pine Ridge Winery, 5901 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-252-9777, Schafer, 6154 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2877. I would set the Schafer appointment first and use the others as fill ins around that visit. There are numerous other wineries in the area that can be very enjoyable including Stags Leap Wine Cellars 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2020, and Robert Sinskey Vineyards, 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-9090. The above might not sound like much, but I assure you that it would be one busy day if you were to visit all of these wineries.

If you only have an afternoon in Napa Valley and want to try some interesting and exciting wines, I would send you to the Oakville Grocery store to grab great breads, wonderful cheeses and luscious meats for a whirl wind tour of fine wines on the Oakville Cross. You can start this quick visit by going to the Napa Wine Company, 7840 St. Helena Hwy, Oakville, 707-944-1710, which represents over 20 small wine makers in the Valley. There you can taste some very small production wines from a number of talented vintners. This is also the home to Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean, a very young Merlot. These collector bottles are not to be consumed, but to be collected for their Marilyn Monroe labels. Next I would direct you to Silver Oak Cellars one of the long standing fine cabernet makers in the Valley. It is located at 915 Oakville Crossroad, 800-273-8809. From there I would cross the street to the Saddleback Winery that is a throwback to the 70’s wineries that existed when I first started going to Napa Valley. The wine maker and owner, Neils Venge, was the first Napa wine maker to score a perfect 100 for his 1985 cabernet sauvignon. Well worth the visit. Next I would recommend a stop at Groth, 750 Oakville Cross Road, Oakville, 707-944-0290, which will require a reservation. The unique pink winery is an enjoyable stop for outstanding wine. The last place on this half day itinerary would be Plump Jack, 620 Oakville Cross Rd., 707-945-1220. High quality and an incredible upbeat tasting room that features screw tops on $150.00 wines. They are definitely innovators in the valley. If on your way out of Napa Valley you still have any time available you could easily add Schaffer or Trefethen but I believe the above itinerary would be a full half day.

There are a handful of wineries that remind me of Napa 30 years ago. They’re smaller and many times you’ll meet the members of the family in the tasting room.

Arger-Martucci is a small family owned winery that the daughter runs the tasting room. Located at 1455 Inglewood Avenue, St. Helena. Open 10-4, Thursday thru Monday and by appointment only 707-963-4334.

The winemaker is a practicing cardiologist in Reno. His 30-year passion for winemaking has found expression in a wonderful Cabernet that is exclusively made from hillside fruit. They’re warm, knowledgeable and will take their time with you.

A must see in the Stags Leap district is Robinson Family Vineyards. 5880 Silverado Trail, 707-944-8004, by appointment only. The granddaughter runs the tasting and tour. Grandma provided the local flavor. Dinky Robinson has knowledge of Napa Valley based on 80 plus years in the Valley. She and her late husband have sold grapes to major wineries for decades, but only recently started selling their wine to the public. Several years ago she took us into her home and showed us pictures of the main wine families and it was delightful. It doesn’t get any better than this. The bonus is the wine is great too.

If you start in Calistoga, I’d visit Vincent Arroyo Vineyards, 2361 Greenwood Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-6995, tasting from 10-4. I bought a large format Chardonnay from Vince for Landon’s graduation party. It was a hit and I love visiting there. They’ll also do port barrel tastings if you show an interest. Vincent was there and was most cordial.

Next head to Zahtila Vineyards, 2250 Lake County Hwy, Calistoga, 707-942-9251, open 10-5. The proprietor is a former high tech executive that fell in love with wine and purchased this winery. The original wine sold was made by former owners and was poor to bad. Now that she is making her own product, there have been marked improvements.

I stop by Rombauer on every trip to the Valley; Jim Kozier is the retail manager. He is so good that he makes me think he really remembers me when I walk in the door. Located at 3522 Silverado Trail, St. Helena, 707-963-5170. Tasting from 10-5 and tours by appointment, they have great caves, available by reservation. This is a quality winery that treats you right and they’ve just redone their tasting area.

Just down the road is Casa Nuestra Winery, 3451 Silverado Trail, St. Helena, 707-963-5783 with tasting from 10-5. Their products are interesting if nothing else. We’ve always had fun with these folks. The Two Goats red is made in honor of the two goats in the yard. The owner moved to Napa Valley in 1975 to get away from the people in the Bay Area. He became interested and then got into wine. I met him last June on Molakai, Hawaii. It was great talking with him around our pool in Molokai. He thought he was going to move because it is becoming too crowded, but he’s still hanging with the goats.

The Frank Family Vineyards has finally separated from Rombauer. Started by a Disney executive, who couldn’t be out front in the wine business, became partners with Rombauer. Tasting here is an event. Comedy is expected and you will be entertained. Make them pour the good stuff from under the counter. They have closed the old farmhouse and now have an ultra modern tasting building. I miss the old place with the uneven floors. 1091 Larkmead, St. Helena, 707-942-0859. Tasting from 10-5.

Caymus has great history for fine wine and is worth the $25.00 tasting fee. They pour generous portions of Caymus Special Select, the group was small, and our host was well informed. Caymus Vineyards, 8700 Conn Creek Rd., Rutherford, 707-967-3010. Tasting by appointment only.

The castle created by Darrel Sattui has been discovered. It was so crowded that we didn’t even go in. Castello di Amorosa is his new winery that occupies a huge medieval appearing castle. It is located at 4045 North St. Helena Hwy, 707-967-6272, www.castellodiamorosa.com , a short distance from Calistoga. They have a two hour tour and tasting that is well worth the time and I would recommend everyone taking time to see this incredible site, but go early and reserve a tour time well in advance.

It was fun to return to Chateau Montelena after a couple of year absence. The wine is always outstanding and the tasting room is manned by knowledgeable individuals. I recently saw Bottleshock a movie that attempts to detail the 1976 competition in France that launched Napa Valley into the world wine wars. The movie highlights Chateau Montelena and its owners. It is an interesting movie.

A marvelous country drive is in store for you if you venture to Pride Mountain wines. 4026 Spring Mountain Road, St. Helena, 707-963-4949 by appointment only. The 20 min. drive up the hills above St. Helena is enjoyable and provide wonderful views of the surrounding area. Pride Mountain offers fine wine in a special setting. Their vineyards are on the Napa-Sonoma border which is an interesting fact in and of itself.

Nikel and Nikel 8164 St. Helena Hwy, Oakville, 707-967-9600 by appointment only. This was the first time I visited this winery and found the tour and tasting to be worth while. They spend a lot of time talking about the unique soil conditions of the Napa Valley and how drastically grapes vary within a very small physical location. The old barn was purchased in  New Hampshire, taken apart board by board and reassembled as part of the winery. The old farmhouse has been thoroughly modernized but it still maintains its charm. The grounds are neat and most attractive.

Going back to Cakebread 8300 St. Helena Hwy, Rutherford, 707-963-5222 by appt only, is like seeing an old friend that has been out of town for a long time. Cakebread was one of the first wineries I ever visited. I still have fond memories of my first meeting with Jack Cakebread. They still make an exceptional Chardonnay and are one of the few places where I will taste white wines.

Another recovering lawyer owns and operates Larkmead Vineyards, 1100 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga, 707-942-0167, by appointment only. We had a great time in this quaint little winery. The owner was involved in a major San Francisco law firm who represented Morrison Knudsen and we had a good time sharing stories about Bill and Mary Agee. He had been to Idaho often and opened up and made our visit much more than we had anticipated. This winery is just across the road from Frank Family and would combine well with a stop there.

Beringer Vineyards, 2000 Main Street, St. Helena, 707-963-4812, is one of the most spectacular locations in all of Napa Valley. The Beringer mansion is a wonderful stop even if you do not participate in a tasting. The mansion has recently been renovated and is now open. A marvelous restorative effort. Tours of the caves and other facilities are available and recommended.

With all the new wineries that now grace the Napa Valley it is easy to forget those that brought me there in the first place. As a kid my sister, who lives in Stockton, would bring us there for a picnic. We would always sin Rutherford at BV. Some of my earliest adult purchases were BV George LaTour. Still a great stop. Do the reserve tasting.

The Salvestrin Estate Vineyard and Winery, 397 Main Street, St. Helena, 707-963-5105, is a small winery and vineyard that adjoins St. Helena High School. The local FFA maintains two rows of grapes as part of their classroom. High School students making wine can only be part of the FFA in the Napa Valley. I can’t imagine it ever being allowed in Idaho. The private tasting at this site is accompanied with outstanding cheeses and bread. The young lady conducting the tasting was knowledgeable and made the visit to Salvestrin enjoyable.

If you’re flying, take Southwest Airlines from Boise to Oakland. Do not fly into San Francisco. It would take you longer to drive through the city than it will to drive from Oakland to Napa. The rental cars are usually cheaper as well. Also, I recommend the 8:40 AM flight, arriving at 9:45 AM in Oakland; depart Oakland on the 6:45 PM flight and arrive in Boise at 9:10 PM. This will maximize your stay in the Valley. Sacramento on Horizon is an alternative if flight times do not work in Oakland. Upon arrival in the Valley I would recommend that you stop in one of the visitors’ information centers and pick up copies of the current issues of Wine Country this Week, Calistoga Visitors guide, Spotlights Wine Country guide, The Mud City Weekender or one of the other promotional magazines or newspapers. They have excellent updates on current Napa Valley events, discounts for tastings, phone numbers and addresses for lodging, dining and wineries.

I prefer to stay in the Valley and not in Napa the city. I usually stay at the Hideaway Cottages in Calistoga, (707) 942-4108, www.hideawaycottages.com . They’re quiet, private, and within easy walking distance of the eateries, spas and nightlife. They have added a take away breakfast that was example, but quite good. This trip we tried a Bed and Breakfast in Calistoga called The Brambles. 1322 Berry Street, 707-942-0619. www.bramblesbandb.com . It is an upstairs space in a Victorian home built in 1886. It would be perfect for a family or two couples traveling together. There are two bedrooms separated by a hallway and breakfast room. The provided breakfasts were better than I expected. They provided an excellent bottle of Syrah in the evening. Very clean and comfortable. Just one more option. I have often visited the Calistoga Inn Restaurant and Brewery, for dinner or a drink, but they also have 18 rooms. 1250 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, California 94515, 707-942-4101, www.calistogainn.com . At $75.00 per night, I was immediately interested after calling a number of locations priced at $300 per night. No bathroom or bath facilities in the room, but down the hall. It’s clean and comfy, but noisy. The bed was excellent. An adequate continental breakfast is included. Great location, but lacks many of the amenities you would expect. If you’ve traveled in Europe this is a comparable experience. The lack of an in room bathroom will eliminate it for most. A more expensive option is the MountView Hotel and Spa, 800-816-6877, www.mountviewspa.com . It has been restored and changed hands several times over the years. See my notes on the two new restaurants that have opened there. If you would like to stay in Napa, the Embassy Suites is nice, but you have to drive after tasting. Referral services: Napa Valley Reservations, Unlimited, 800-251-6272; B & B Style, 800-995-8884. I visited a few new locations that are nice, but expensive. The Oak Knoll Inn, 2200 E. Oak Knoll Ave. Napa Valley, 707-255-2200. Great setting among 600 acres of Chardonnay vines. The Cottages of Napa Valley, 1012 Darms Lane (2 miles south of Yountville) is modern with free wine tasting to patrons each evening, but one night costs what three do at the Hideaway Cottages. In May we wondered what was being built at 755 Silverado Trail in Calistoga. I thought it might be a development for farm laborers. What a difference 6 months can make. It is now "SOLAGE" an Auberge Resort. 866-942-7444, www.solagecalistoga.com . The modular construction in a 2008 version of the Hideaway Cottages. Olympic size pool, large children’s pool, incredible spa, 89 units each with two (2) bicycles. We enjoyed their restaurant, Solbar. Reasonably priced for an upscale facility. Good wine list, a fascinating fireplace draws your attention immediately. Calistoga will benefit from this new resort.

Not being a coffee drinker, I had forgotten how important it is too many of you. From the Hideaway Cottages the closest espresso is at Cal Mart on Lincoln Avenue. The Calistoga Coffee Roasteré is a short walk at 1631 Lincoln Avenue. In St. Helena the Model Bakery located at 1357 Main Street is a treat, but it’s closed on Mondays. The Oakville Grocery at Highway 29 and Oakville Cross opens early for coffee drinkers and will give you the boost you need.

Drinking and driving is a consideration. If you do not have a designated driver, California Wine Tours provides self directed tours and chauffeurs, 800-294-6386 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Antique Tours Limousine Service, 707-226-9227 is also an option. They are strongly recommended by Robinson Family Vineyards and have four 1947 Packard autos.

For a massage, facial, et cetera, Calistoga was founded for its healing waters. Mud baths are sort of fun! Lincoln Avenue Spa, 1339 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, 707-942-5296; GoldHaven Hot Springs, 1713 Lake St., Calistoga, 707-942-6793. There are several others available. After the mud bath, you get fire hoses to wash each other off. Like I said, sort of fun. We had an excellent massage at the Calistoga Massage Center and Day Spa 1219 Washington Street Calistoga 707-942-6193. Solage Spa is a new option as well. 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga (866)942-7444.

I don’t like heights, but I’m intrigued by the thought of floating above the vineyards as workers labor in the early morning hours in the fields below. Two options are "Napa Valley Balloons, Inc." 707-944-0228 and "Balloons Above the Valley" 800-464-6824. You can do champagne brunches or coffee & pastries, or anything in between.

It rained while we were on this trip, so somehow my tasting time was converted to shopping time.

several dozen Tommy Bahamas and more. The two blocks on both sides of the street house some shops of note. Antiques, wine shops, jewelry, embroidered towels, The Model Bakery (great pastries espresso and coffee, closed Mondays), drug store, clothing and apparel shops, Woodhouse Chocolates, Main Street Books and much more on Main Street in St. Helena. Down the road toward Calistoga was the St. Helena Premier Outlet Mall….Brooks Brothers, Escada, Movado, Jones New York, Coach Etc. It now sits totally vacant. Oh well, more time to taste. The City of Napa is home to over 75,000 residents and has a huge outlet mall, called the Napa Premium Outlets. Exit Hwy 29 at First Street. Over 50 stores and a downtown that is best described as "Funky" and "Original". The shopping opportunities are endless and my narrative is necessarily limited on the subject. In Calistoga there are several interesting places, such as, Casa Design, Santa Fe West, and Funke’s all on Lincoln Ave.

I frequent Niebaum-Coppola Estate, not because of the wine, but because it is a special place. Finnish Sea Captain and Alaska fur trader Gustave Niebaum purchased the property and named it Inglenook. Mass-market wines by that name were produced there until Director Francis Ford Coppola purchased the Estate and turned it into a show place with a museum. They now charge a $25.00 fee to taste and tour. I suggest you look around and leave. Save your money. Another winery recommended for other than its wine is Hall Wines, 401 St. Helena Hwy. So. 707-967-2620. They feature a "ghost" winery tour of the original winery, which is now contained within the walls of the current winery –owned by President Clinton’s Ambassador to Austria. When the Texas developers opened their tasting rooms in March 2005, they featured the "Vienna Boy’s Choir." You must have reservations for the tour, www.hallwines.com

Your dining options are incalculable, whatever you want, they have. The number one recommendation is the French Laundry in Yountville. They have a two-month waiting list. I’ve been fortunate enough to get in on three occasions. On your way into the Valley, stop in at 6640 Washington St., Yountville. Tell them that you would love to dine with them if a cancellation occurs. I’m batting .500 on this approach. If you want to try to get a reservation, try 707-944-2380. This restaurant is consistently rated as one of the five best in the world. Their sampler menu has gone up to $250.00 per person. You should try it once.

Meadow Wood resort is a class place to dine. The tastings menu introduced us to seven courses paired with their recommended wines. The setting is elegant, the service flawless and the price extraordinary. The resort features a professional croquet course with its own pro. The players all dressed in white made me think of the great Gatsby of a bygone era. You won’t find it to be a recommended place to stay, because I was afraid to ask the cost.

I was shattered to find that the Wappo Bar Bistro had closed its doors in Calistoga. Several other long term eateries also have closed, but new places have sprung up. Two new Calistoga restaurants have opened up across the lobby from each other n the historic Mount View Hotel and Spa at 1457 Lincoln Ave. We dined at Jole, owned by Chefs Matt and Sonjia Spector. They bill their place as "Farm to table." The meal was excellent and reasonably priced but the wine list was wanting.

We wandered across the lobby for a night cap and enjoyed the atmosphere of Barolo an Italian kitchen that promotes its signature cocktails. It was lively for a Monday evening.

Ristorante TraVigne, 1050 Charter oak, St. Helena, 707-963-4444 continues to set a standard for incredible enjoyability. I tried their risotto with duck and find my mouth watering at the mere thought of it. Great place for lunch or dinner.

A must stop is the Culinary Institute of America, 2555 Main St, St. Helena. The Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant is there, a great dining experience and try the tastings appetizers. It is the old Christian Brothers Winery. One of the best wine lists you’ll see.

Domaine Chandon, is a comfortable and enjoyable place for lunch or dinner. Across Hwy 29 from Yountville, 1 California Drive 707-944-2280. They feature sparkling wine, but their restaurant is world class. Service was unexpectedly good. If the French Laundry doesn’t work, try Domaine Chandon, just a short drive away.

If you decide to play golf in Napa, I recommend the Chardonnay Golf Club and Vineyards at 2555 Jameson Canyon Rd. 27 holes of Championship golf. It is designed to provide three challenging courses.

Most wineries have places on their grounds dedicated to the picnic. Bread, salami, and cheese are the norm for lunch, but you may add goose pate’ and an infinite number of other options available at any deli in the area. I recommend a visit to the Oakville Grocery at Highway 29 and Oakville Cross. A great store with everything you could want. It’s not your normal grocery, so don’t miss it. If you want a romantic spot to picnic, I recommend the Pagoda at Chateau Montelena, you must reserve it, and it is currently being reconstructed as part of a huge improvement to the grounds. This will be a real WOW when completed. It’s in a small lake surrounding the winery with swans-a-swimming, 707-942-5105. V. Sattui Winery is a picnic ground that also sells wine. It’s a fun spot to watch the Wine Train go by. 1111 White Ln., St. Helena, 707-963-7774.

If you follow the routes that connect the above listed wineries, you will drive by dozens of wineries that are covered only in the Skip Smyser Unabridged Guide to Napa Valley. The Valley is a wonderful place to explore. The fun is making your own memories from the wines you taste and the people you meet. If I am able to provide insight on areas not covered, please feel free to contact me. I will update this after my next visit to the Napa Valley. I’d love to hear about the special places you discover.

Skip Smyser

(208) 342-0777